Dermaplaning & Ingrowns: 2026 Truths Debunked

There’s a ton of bad information out there about dermaplaning and ingrowns, and it causes a lot of needless anxiety or leads to the wrong aftercare for people dealing with facial hair ingrowns. Let’s set the record straight and bust the common myths about this exfoliation method.

Myth 1: Dermaplaning causes hair to grow back thicker and darker, leading to more ingrowns.

This is the biggest myth about dermaplaning, and it’s just plain wrong. People think their hair feels thicker or looks darker after a treatment because we’re removing that super-fine vellus hair, often called “peach fuzz,” from the skin’s surface. When that hair starts growing back, the tip has been cut straight across instead of tapering naturally to a fine point, so it can feel a little more noticeable for a bit. But dermaplaning doesn’t touch the hair follicle itself. As the American Academy of Dermatology Association (AAD) points out, shaving or cutting hair doesn’t change its growth pattern, thickness, or color. Your genetics and hormones control those things, not a blade on the surface. Seriously, think about it: if shaving made hair grow back coarser, wouldn’t we all have beards by now? That’s not how biology works. The blade we use is specifically designed to gently scrape away the buildup of dead skin cells and that fine vellus hair, without interacting with the root or messing with your hormones. The feeling of thicker hair is a sensory illusion. The blunt tip of the new hair might feel a little stubbly at first, but the hair’s actual diameter hasn’t changed at all.

Myth 2: Dermaplaning increases your risk of developing ingrown hairs.

A lot of people also worry that dermaplaning will somehow make them prone to ingrowns. In reality, the opposite is often true. For many people, dermaplaning can actually help *prevent* ingrown hairs, particularly the kind caused by surface congestion and dead skin buildup. Ingrowns happen when a hair gets trapped and curls back or grows sideways into the skin, which is often because a layer of dead skin cells is blocking its path. Dermaplaning is a powerful exfoliation treatment. By clearing away that superficial layer of dead skin, it literally smooths the runway for hair to grow out properly, which drastically reduces the chance of it getting trapped. And unlike waxing, which yanks the hair from the root and can cause inflammation that leads to ingrowns as the new hair tries to break through, dermaplaning just nicks the hair off at the surface. This simple removal doesn’t agitate the follicle in a way that promotes ingrown growth. In fact, a 2020 study in the Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology confirmed that regular exfoliation helps improve skin texture and reduces problems like follicular occlusion, which is the technical term for the blockages that cause ingrowns.

Myth 3: You can dermaplane at home with a regular razor for the same results and no risk.

Trying to do this at home with a standard razor isn’t just a different thing, it’s risky. In a professional treatment, we use a specialized, sterile surgical-grade blade that’s held at a very precise 45-degree angle to the skin. That technique takes a lot of training to master so you don’t cause nicks, cuts, or serious irritation. Using an everyday razor from the drugstore, which is built for coarser body hair and has a completely different blade design, will give you uneven exfoliation at best and skin damage at worst. Plus, you’re raising your risk of irritation or infection. A huge part of professional dermaplaning is the sterile environment. We’re opening up your pores and freshly exfoliating your skin, and doing that in your bathroom without proper sanitation is asking for trouble. The American Society for Dermatologic Surgery (ASDS) is clear that dermaplaning should only be done by a licensed aesthetician or dermatologist. We know skin anatomy and have the technique down to do it safely and handle any reaction if one occurs. I’ve personally seen clients come in with scrapes and angry skin from DIY attempts, which just proves that this is a job for a professional.

Myth 4: Dermaplaning is only for removing hair. It has no other skincare benefits.

Thinking dermaplaning is just about hair removal completely misses the main point. Yes, the hair is gone immediately, but the real magic of this treatment is in the exfoliation. By carefully scraping away that top layer of dead, dull skin cells, we reveal the fresher, brighter skin that’s been hiding underneath. This physical exfoliation process kicks your cell turnover into gear, which is what you need to maintain bright, healthy-looking skin. Even better, getting rid of that barrier of dead skin allows your expensive skincare products to actually work. Your serums and moisturizers can penetrate much more effectively because they aren’t being blocked, meaning their active ingredients get to the deeper layers of your skin where they can make a real difference. This improved product absorption leads to better hydration, smoother texture, and more even skin tone. And as a bonus, the perfectly smooth surface we create is an incredible canvas for makeup. Your foundation will go on like a dream. Research from the National Center for Biotechnology Information (NCBI) confirms that regular exfoliation methods, including dermaplaning, are great for supporting your skin’s barrier function and overall health.

Myth 5: Dermaplaning is a harsh treatment that will leave your skin red and irritated for days.

The idea that dermaplaning is some aggressive treatment that leaves you red and raw for days is a myth, at least when it’s done correctly. Sure, any kind of exfoliation can cause a little temporary pinkness, but prolonged irritation is not the norm. When a trained professional performs the service, it’s actually very gentle. Most people walk out with a healthy glow and have zero downtime. You might be a little pink for an hour or so, kind of like after using a good facial scrub, but that’s it. The key is having it done with the right technique and following the right skincare aftercare. A good practitioner will look at your skin and make sure it’s a good fit for you in the first place. Afterward, we apply calming, hydrating products. Your job is to continue that care at home by avoiding the sun, using a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher, and keeping your skin moisturized. You’ll also want to skip any harsh exfoliants or active ingredients like retinoids for a couple of days. The Professional Skincare Association (PSA) has guidelines that stress how important this gentle post-procedure care is for protecting the skin and avoiding a bad reaction. The skincare world has a lot of conflicting advice, and dermaplaning is no different. But when you look at the facts, it’s clear. When performed by a qualified professional who gives you good aftercare instructions, dermaplaning is a safe and effective way to exfoliate your skin and get rid of vellus hair, giving you real benefits without the imagined risks of thicker hair or more ingrowns.