Dermaplaning in 2026: 5 Steps to Radiant Skin

Dermaplaning offers a dual benefit: it’s a powerful method for vellus hair removal and an effective form of skin exfoliation. This professional treatment leaves skin remarkably smooth and radiant, but how exactly does it work?

As a seasoned aesthetician with over a decade in the industry, I’ve seen countless clients transformed by dermaplaning. It’s not just about getting rid of peach fuzz; it’s about revealing a fresh, vibrant complexion underneath. Many people confuse it with shaving, but the technique and results are profoundly different. We’re talking about a controlled, precise exfoliation that goes beyond what any razor can achieve.

1. Prepare Your Workspace and Client’s Skin

Before any blade touches the skin, meticulous preparation is non-negotiable. I always start by ensuring my treatment room is spotless and all tools are sterilized. For dermaplaning, we use a #10R surgical scalpel, which has a rounded “butter blade” edge, ideal for skin contact. Each blade is single-use, of course.

Once the client is comfortably positioned, I begin with a thorough cleansing. I typically use a gentle, pH-balanced cleanser like Glytone Mild Gel Cleanser, massaging it into the skin for about 60 seconds. Rinse thoroughly with warm water and soft sponges. The next critical step is degreasing. I apply a medical-grade degreasing solution, often a blend of isopropyl alcohol and witch hazel, to a cotton pad and swipe it across the entire treatment area. This removes any residual oils or impurities that could interfere with the blade’s glide or harbor bacteria. A clean, dry canvas is paramount.

2. Secure the Skin and Maintain Proper Blade Angle

This is where technique truly comes into play. The skin must be taut. I use one hand to gently pull the skin tight, stretching it against the natural direction of hair growth. For instance, on the cheek, I’ll stretch the skin towards the hairline. My other hand holds the scalpel. The blade should be held at a 45-degree angle relative to the skin’s surface. This angle is absolutely critical. Too flat, and you won’t exfoliate effectively; too steep, and you risk nicks or irritation. I’ve seen practitioners (usually those who learned from a YouTube video, not a certified course) try to go flatter, thinking it’s safer. It’s not. It just scrapes the skin without lifting the dead cells properly.

Think of it like this: you’re not cutting the hair; you’re gently scraping the surface, removing the topmost layer of dead skin cells and the vellus hair with it. The 45-degree angle ensures optimal contact for this controlled exfoliation.

3. Execute Short, Controlled Strokes

With the skin taut and the blade at the correct angle, I begin making short, feather-light strokes. Each stroke should be no longer than about one inch. I always work against the direction of hair growth. For example, on the forehead, I’d typically work upwards towards the hairline. On the cheeks, I move from the jawline upwards towards the temples.

The pressure should be minimal, just enough to feel the blade gently gliding over the skin. You’ll see a fine accumulation of dead skin cells and vellus hair on the blade with each pass. This is often referred to as “peach fuzz” or “terminal vellus hair.” I wipe the blade clean on a sterile gauze pad after every few strokes to maintain visibility and efficiency. Overlapping strokes by about 25% ensures complete coverage without over-treating any single area. My goal is to achieve a uniform, glassy finish across the entire face, excluding the eyelids, lips, and areas with active acne breakouts.

4. Cleanse and Soothe Post-Treatment

Once the entire face (or treatment area) has been dermaplaned, I perform a final cleanse. I use a gentle, hydrating toner or a mild, calming solution to remove any remaining debris and balance the skin’s pH. My go-to is usually a soothing rosewater mist or a hyaluronic acid toner from SkinMedica, which helps to immediately calm the skin. After this, I apply a nourishing serum. I often opt for a serum rich in antioxidants and hyaluronic acid to promote healing and hydration. A lightweight, non-comedogenic moisturizer follows, locking in the hydration.

This is also the moment to educate the client on aftercare, which is arguably as important as the treatment itself. We’ve just removed a protective layer of dead skin, making the new skin more vulnerable. Sun protection is paramount.

5. Implement Aftercare and Sun Protection

The first 48 hours post-dermaplaning are crucial for optimal results and to prevent complications. I instruct my clients to avoid direct sun exposure, excessive sweating, and harsh skincare products (like retinoids, alpha hydroxy acids, or physical exfoliants) for at least two days. A mineral-based sunscreen with at least SPF 30, such as EltaMD UV Clear Broad-Spectrum SPF 46, is mandatory, and it should be reapplied every two hours if outdoors.

Hydration is key. I recommend using gentle, hydrating cleansers and moisturizers. My client Sarah, a marketing executive from the Buckhead neighborhood of Atlanta, came to me last year complaining of dull skin and makeup that never sat right. After her first dermaplaning session and diligent aftercare, she called me two days later, ecstatic. “My foundation just glides on now,” she said, “and my skin feels incredibly soft, like it did when I was 20!” This isn’t an uncommon reaction. Her skin was not only smoother, but her serums and moisturizers were absorbing far more effectively, making her entire routine work better. We scheduled her for a follow-up in four weeks, which is a typical interval.

It’s important to understand that while dermaplaning offers immediate gratification, consistency yields the best long-term results. Regular treatments (typically every 3 to 4 weeks, aligning with the skin’s natural cell turnover cycle) help maintain that smooth, radiant complexion and ensure continued product efficacy. This isn’t a one-and-done solution. It’s a commitment to skin health.

Dermaplaning, when performed by a skilled professional, is a highly effective treatment for achieving smoother, brighter skin and enhancing the absorption of skincare products. Adhering to these precise steps and diligent aftercare will ensure outstanding results.